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The install instructions on this page apply to any skate that uses either the old CCM/Koho shell to the left, or the old CCM shell to the right. The color of the shell doesn't matter (black, white, clear) and the skate brand doesn't matter. The only factor that affects the Overdrive install is the type of shell you have. |
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I don't think any skate company is using this shell any more, but it was a good one, and I found it easy to install the blade on them because bottom of the boot is flatter and the edge of the boot
is more square so you get a better sense of how far to move the blade
in or out. |
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Front-to-back positioning is the same as with all skates - position the front of the blade where the main blade holder meets the boot (green arrow). You do not have to be exact here, just be close and it will be fine. |
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Here's another look. The red line marks the end of the main blade holder.
The blue line shows how the inside edge of Overdrive does not run parallel to the main blade, but leans out slightly farther up the toe. This is common for installs on most brands. For the in-out positioning, the best thing to do is put the blade flush to the edge of the boot and then move it out about 1/16". You'll have to eyeball this measurement, as it is too awkward to hold the blade and a ruler at the same time. |
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Here's a slightly different angle for the in-out positioning. The boot is slightly rounded, but there is a definable edge where you can set the blade flush, and again, just move it out 1/16" from that position and mark the middle hole for drilling. |
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Only one screw is in the blade here, so it isn't lying flat. Once
all three screws are in, the blade will bend a bit and conform to the slight
curve of the boot. Below
are some photos to help you with the in-out positioning. |
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The
old CCM shell is quite rounded, so positioning of the blade requires a
little extra care. Just be aware that the blade can look like it's out farther
than it really is. The best thing to do is to use the center molding as
your reference point for in-out positioning. I wear size 10 1/2 shoes
so the in/out reference points shown below will change slightly as you go
up and down in size. For the smaller sizes, positioning isn't a problem, as you will butt the blade right up against the center molding. |
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The green
arrows show where the top of the blade lines up with the corner of the
big plastic molding. The line of the top of the blade will roughly match
the line the two corner points make. You don't have to be exact here, close counts.
For in/out
positioning the big purple arrow points to the space between the big plastic
molding and the inside edge of the blade. This distance should be about
2mm. or 1/16" and you can easily 'eyeball' this measurement since
it doesn't have to be precise. Again, the
smaller sizes will not need this measurment because the blade can be
positioned flush t othe side of the molding.
The yellow
arrows point out the change in pattern that these boots have, and which can be a useful refernce point. Arrow 1 points
to the smooth part, arrow 2 points to the patterned part and the little
arrows point to the line that separates the two, which the Overdrive edge will
roughly follow. This applies to all sizes.
Again, you
just have to be close so, as long as the curve of the blade follows the
outside of the boot and the inside edge (red arrow above) is sort of parallel
to the main blade you'll be all right. |
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Here are those reference points again. The
aqua arrow X shows how the curve of the CCM boot creates a gap at the back
of the blade.
The
aqua arrow to the right shows how much room is between the molding and the blade when
Overdrive is on my skates. You can also see here how the curve of the blade roughly
follows the change in pattern on the boot. |
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